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12 Crossbow Do's and 3 Don'ts ---by Bob Robb When I first started shooting modern crossbows several years ago, I had no idea what to expect. Like many who had never played with them, these tools confused me. I had seen them on TV, but without ever handling one, I wasn`t sure about a lot of things. How do you load one? How do you pull the string back? What`s the trigger like? Do they kick, like a rifle? Are they noisy? Are they accurate? How far away can you accurately shoot one? Do they have enough power to kill a deer? Was I in for a surprise! Modern crossbows are fast, accurate, and plenty powerful enough to cleanly take the largest big-game animals in North America. They are also a pleasure to shoot. To get the most out of your crossbow, you need to understand the basics of how to set one up for hunting and how to shoot it. Here are 12 tips to make you a crossbow-shooting machine, using a crossbow-and-arrow set-up designed specifically for hunting big game. 1. Buy the Best You Can Afford There`s a big difference between an el cheapo, bargain-basement crossbow and a top-of-the-line model. Sure, the bargain model costs a lot less, but it will not be built as well, be as accurate or reliable, and sooner or later it will fail you when the moment of truth arrives. You can buy crossbow packages that include everything you need to get out shooting and hunting-crossbow, a few arrows and arrow points, a scope sight, cocking device and quiver-from anywhere between about $800 to $1,500. As in all things in life, here you get what you pay for. Spend a few more dollars and get the best you can. You`ll never be sorry. 2. Use Enough Draw Weight The principle specification that distinguishes a hunting crossbow from a target model is draw weight. Fortunately, most states have taken the guesswork out of determining what is sufficient by establishing a regulatory minimum. While those regulations vary considerably from state to state, the overall range runs from 75 to 125 pounds of draw weight. With little exception, any crossbow in that range should be adequate to kill a whitetail deer at moderate ranges. That said, most of the better hunting crossbows are in the 150 to 175 pounds range, with a few topping out over 200 pounds. In general, bigger is better-or in this case, faster. Keep in mind that you can go too heavy, too, as at least one state-Ohio-has a maximum allowable draw weight of 200 pounds. 3. Shoot a Fast Enough Arrow Both crossbow and compound bow makers continually strive to push the speed envelope. You make a crossbow faster by increasing the draw weight. That`s why the above point is so important. How fast is fast enough? I like my crossbows to shoot a hunting-weight arrow with an initial velocity of at least 300 feet per second (fps.) That will both give your arrow enough kinetic energy (K.E.) to cleanly take any big-game animal, and reduce arrow trajectory at longer ranges, which makes accurate shooting easier. Some crossbows are beginning to push the 400 fps envelope, so look for improvements in this number across the board in coming years. 4. Use a Scope Sight Though some crossbows still come with open sights, you will be much better served using some sort of scope sight. These optical sighting devices make accurate shooting much easier. For magnification, you can choose from just about anything between zero power and 5X. Inside the scope is the reticle, defined as some configuration of horizontal and vertical crosshairs-though for crossbows, it also includes any object projected or suspended across the field of view. Choices begin with a simple, single red dot or crosshair. With them you sight in for a fixed distance, typically 20 yards, then have to compensate for longer shots by holding higher. Multi-reticle scopes are the most popular, particularly those with three to four dots or horizontal crosshairs. The top one is sighted in for 20 yards and the next two are fixed at intervals that will be dead-on at 30, 40 and 50 yards, respectively, on most bows. 5. Use Quality Arrows Unless your arrows (or bolts) fly like laser beams, you`ll never be able to precisely hit your target. Cheap arrows manufactured to sloppy tolerances will fly like a knuckleball. That`s why you should use only the very best arrows, designed specifically for crossbow shooting, you can afford. Many crossbow companies sell arrows, but they`re made for them by arrow manufacturers like Gold Tip, Carbon Express and Easton. Make sure they have a nock designed for crossbows, not compound bows, are cut to the proper length and have the proper fletches. Both carbon and aluminum arrows work well, but by far the most rugged and high-tech are made from carbon. 6. Use Quality Broadheads The business end of a hunting arrow is the broadhead. There are more makes, models and styles of hunting broadheads available than you can shake a stick at. Here again, the most expensive are generally those built to the tightest tolerances, with the sharpest blades, that fly straight and true, and have a long track record of success. Both replaceable-blade and mechanical broadhead designs will work well for crossbow shooters, with the mechanical design becoming more and more popular each year. The most common weight for a hunting broadhead is 100 grains, with 125 grains a distant second. 7. Take a Rest A crossbow is somewhat heavy and clunky, making it almost impossible to accurately shoot without using some sort of rest. That can be everything from using standard rifle shooting positions like kneeling and sitting, to using a set of shooting sticks or monopod, to using a shooting rail in a tree stand or shooting house. I never, ever turn an arrow loose from my crossbows without taking a rest of some kind. When using a rest, try padding the crossbow`s forearm with something soft-your hand, a rolled-up jacket, a day pack, something-which will help absorb recoil and make precise sighting easier than if you shoot off a hard surface. 8. Learn Arrow Trajectory All arrows fired from a crossbow travel downrange in a large parabolic arc. Your crosshairs are set to hit dead-on at specific distances, but often you`ll be shooting at a deer or other animal between these distances. When you practice you`ll soon learn where you have to place your crosshairs relative to the animal to hit the [tweener" ranges. 9. Use a Rangefinder With the click of a button, a modern laser rangefinder can instantaneously give you the exact distance from you to the target-a critical bit of information in accurate shooting when you are lobbing an arrow at the target. The best laser rangefinders are as reliable as the sunrise. My Nikon Archer`s Choice model even tells me exactly where to aim when shooting at steep uphill and downhill angles. Costing somewhere between $250 and $400, they`re a lifetime investment worth every penny. 10. Get a `Feel` For the Trigger Every crossbow has a trigger unique unto itself. You need to shoot your crossbow enough so that you know exactly when the trigger will send the arrow on its way. Shoot both with and without gloves so you know how both feel (it will be different). 11. Practice in the Field The old axiom, [practice makes perfect," certainly applies to shooting your crossbow. Once you get it set up and sighted in, spend some time shooting off a bench rest. Use these sessions to precisely set your sights and get a feel for the trigger. However, you then need to move away from the bench and practice taking shots that simulate actual hunting conditions. Shoot from the kneeling and sitting positions. Climb into your tree stand or ground blind and take shots at the same angles and distances you anticipate you`ll be taking during hunting season. Learn to use your shooting sticks or monopod quickly, quietly and efficiently. 12. Maintain String, Rail, Trigger A crossbow is a machine, which means it will need regular maintenance if it is to keep on ticking like a fine Swiss watch. That means you should always check the string and cables for wear. This is very important on a crossbow because you have direct string-to-rail contact, which creates friction and abrasion, with every shot. At the first sign of fraying or abnormal wear, replace them. You can reduce the need for replacement with regular maintenance. Keep the string, cables and center serving clean and well maintained after each practice session, and especially after each trip to the field. Make sure you lubricate the center serving, and the rails should also be regularly lubed per the manufacturer`s instructions. Don`t Do This! There are some real mistakes that can cost you accuracy and/or lead to injury if you are not careful when shooting a crossbow. Here are the three most common: 1. Watch Fingers & Thumb Many shooters used to shooting rifles have a tendency to stick the fingers of the hand that holds the rifle`s forearm straight up in the air when they cradle the rifle. If you do this with a crossbow, you risk placing your digits in the path of a bowstring that is rocketing down the rail and will slice the fingers and/or thumb to the bone. Never, ever do this! 2. Don`t Shoot Off-Hand The construction of a crossbow puts a lot of weight in its front end, making it very difficult to balance when trying to shoot from the off-hand position. Even the very best rifle shooters only shoot off-hand as a last resort. You`ll be much better off learning to shoot quickly from the kneeling and sitting positions, and when using shooting sticks or a rail for a rock-solid rest. 3. Shoot Outside Your Own MESR Many years ago, I coined a phrase for bowhunters, Maximum Effective Shooting Range, or MESR. Your MESR is the maximum distance you can consistently place a hunting arrow into the bullseye. For some crossbow hunters that`s 20 yards; for others it is 60 yards. For most of us, it is somewhere in between. You will learn your own MESR as you practice. At some point, you just won`t be plunking that arrow into the bullseye on a regular basis. When that happens, it`s time to back off a few yards until you are once again placing at least 90 percent of your shots into the center of the target. At the same time, you should try and push the envelope and stretch your MESR in small (say, 5-yard) increments. But once I get into the field and I know my own MESR is, say, 40 yards, I will not take a shot at a game animal any further than that.

How to Prepare Your Crossbow for Hunting Season By: Bryan Zabitski | June 19, 2018 This is a great time of year to start preparing for the upcoming fall crossbow hunting season. Whether you are new to crossbows or a seasoned veteran, proper maintenance and tuning of your crossbow, selecting the right arrow and practicing your shooting routine are all activities that will help you be ready when the season arrives. Applying string wax or conditioner is one of the easiest ways to keep your crossbow in good working order, and while doing so, you can inspect the string and cables for wear. Maintenance Review your crossbow owner`s manual for the manufacturer`s recommended maintenance procedures – use this information to make a checklist for yourself for future maintenance activities. Visually inspect the condition of the string and cables, looking for worn servings or broken strands, and have them changed if you find excessive wear or if you have not had the string and cables changed in the past two years. Apply string wax and/or string conditioner to the string and cables if they do not need to be changed. Check the timing of the cams to make sure that they are working in unison – most cams will have dots machined on the top side of each cam. If they are out of proper timing, schedule an appointment with your local archery dealer to have the timing adjusted correctly. Check all screws and bolts in the crossbow and tighten any that may have worked loose from previous use. Apply a light gun oil or protective lubricant to any parts that have the potential to rust, especially the trigger mechanism. Apply lubricant to the flight rail as needed. If you find any other problems with your crossbow, schedule an appointment with your local archery dealer to have the condition repaired now, instead of waiting until the last minute and getting caught up in the fall rush. Selecting the correct arrow and broadhead combination to fit your crossbow is vital to achieve the best hunting accuracy and dependability possible. Arrow and Broadhead Selection To begin to narrow your arrow and broadhead options, review your crossbow owner`s manual for the manufacturer`s arrow specification requirements like minimum finished arrow weight, maximum fletching height profile and nock type. Not following the manufacturer`s requirements may cause the crossbow to become unsafe or malfunction. Research your state`s hunting regulations to determine if there are local guidelines that you must follow regarding minimum arrow length, weight and broadhead types. If you don`t already have a preference to shoot aluminum or carbon shafts, research the pros and cons of both materials to decide what`s best for you. Only purchase broadheads that are specifically designed for crossbows. Shoot-tune your crossbow arrows after you purchase them and always take practice shots with your broadheads to ensure accuracy in the field. Consistent practice is key to develop your confidence and skill with a crossbow so that you`re ready for deer hunting season. Practice, Practice, Practice Review your crossbow owner`s manual for the manufacturer`s recommended cocking, loading and firing procedures. Develop a shooting routine that you follow each time you take a shot, and strictly adhere to this routine in all shooting situations. Familiarize yourself with the correct method for cocking your crossbow, then follow this method every time – this is critical to achieving shooting consistency and accurate arrow groups. Never load the arrow in a way that puts your hand or fingers in the path of the bowstring. Inspect your arrows after every shot for damage and loose field points or broadheads. Adopt a breathing control routine when taking the shot. Follow-through after the shot by watching the arrow hit the target through the scope. Now that your crossbow is tuned, you have the best arrow and broadhead combination, and you have practiced shooting the crossbow within a developed routine, you should be confident when the moment arrives to take the shot at a deer when the season arrives.

HOW TO HUNT WILD HOG: BIG BOAR HUNTING TIPS (GUNS, BOWS, DOGS & MORE) The wild hog, or wild boar, is one of the more interesting kinds of game you can hunt. A wild hog is like a massive pig, and in fact, the modern pig descended from the wild hog. But it is a distinct animal that can be exciting to hunt down if you are fully prepared. There is no telling how big of a wild boar you may find in the wild. Wild hogs are descendants of once domesticated pigs. They aren`t directly related to smaller peccaries – namely Javelina. There are quite a few things you`ll need to do in order to get fully prepared to hunt these big pigs. Wild hog hunting is very popular in Texas but can be done in other areas of the United States. Here`s how to be prepared before you head out for your next big boar hunting expedition. 1. HOG/BOAR WEIGHT & SIZES A wild hog can grow quite large in size. Males can weigh as much as 200 pounds while females weigh up to 150 pounds. Wild boars can be up to five feet long and three feet high. This is a large animal that could be a challenge to hunt down, depending on how you have planned and packed. A hog`s coat is also extremely thick and difficult to penetrate. Wild pig bristles are long and coarse. They are thicker around the main part of the body and thinner around the head and neck. The coat creates a strong barrier around the hog`s body, making it hard for many types of weapons to penetrate the body. 2. WEAPONS YOU SHOULD BRING Consider the weapons you`ll need for wild boar hunting. Most hunters use firearms since knives and other blades might not penetrate through the hog`s body. Also, it could be extremely dangerous to target a wild hog too close as that animal could injure you. Let`s look at the top weapons for your next hog hunt: A 12-gauge shotgun: A Shotgun will work best on larger adult hogs. A Reliable Rifle: Most large caliber rifles are suitable depending on state laws. No smaller calibers. A Large Caliber Handgun: A .454 or .50 caliber handgun works best to finish a wounded hog. A Heavy Draw Compound Bow: Keep any arrow heads you use sharp, too. Most compound bowsare best for distances of 30 yards away or less. (Tenpoint Nitro X Crossbow: https://www.conqueroroutdoors.com/product/79) A Good Hunting Knife: You can use a hunting knife when hunting wild hog, although you would use it to finish off the hog. The blade in question must be at least six inches long. It must also be at least a quarter of an inch thick. Don`t forget to use a good handle to get enough traction over the animal`s body. A hog`s coat and skin are thick, so you will need a powerful blade to get the most out of the hunt. 3. WHAT WILD BOAR BAITS WORK? You can use bait to attract wild hogs, although the rules may vary depending on where you are, as you will see in the next section. But the use of bait can be helpful if you plan it right. Here are some tips on using bait to attract wild pigs: Corn: Soak it in sugar, water or beer for a few days. Corn attracts hogs, but will keep other animals away, creating a spot where the hog will be all yours to go after without any other distractions. Pecans and Nuts: Wild hogs will readily consume nuts quite often. Also, leave your bait out for a while before you start hunting any hogs down. When you leave it out there for a few days, the hogs will associate that space as a safe area. This keeps their defenses down and gives you a golden opportunity to hunt them. 4. LOCAL LAWS: WILD HOG HUNTING LEGALESE Although wild hog is often an invasive species, that doesn`t mean you can legally hunt one down no matter where you go. As with deer hunting, you may require a hunting license to hunt for wild pigs. Wild hog can damage native plants with ease. They disrupt many local food chains and so the wild pig population may need controlling. Even so, you should still adhere to the local laws with regards to hunting wild boar. The laws involved in hunting wild hog vary by state, but here are some things to keep in mind: DISCLAIMER: WE ARE NOT LEGAL EXPERTS! IF YOU HAVE HUNTING QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR STATE AND LOCAL LAWS, CONTACT AN ATTORNEY. THIS IS MEANT TO BE A GUIDE, NOT A COMPREHENSIVE LIST. There are limits to when you can hunt wild hog. Hunting seasons occur at certain times of the year on private and public lands, depending on where you go. Night hunting is okay in some places. It is legal to night hunt for wild pigs in Florida on private land spaces with the owner`s permission, but it is also illegal in Hawaii. There may be a limit on the size of hog you can hunt. Be sure to check weight and size restrictions where you plan to hunt. Some places allow baiting, while others place restrictions. Some states like Indiana allow you to use baits, but only on private land spaces You may need a hunting license. The terms for getting a license will vary based on where you go. It may cost less for residents to get a license than it does for non-residents. You can hunt feral hogs in some spots, but there may be some restrictions. Certain states ban feral hunting. Feral hunting is fully allowed in Michigan or Mississippi. In Kansas or Minnesota, you can`t hunt feral hogs at all. Some states limit the types of wild hogs you can hunt. You might be allowed to hunt an adult male hog, but not a female or younger hog. Always adhere to any laws relating to wild hog hunting no matter where you plan on going. You may be subjected to penalties depending on where you hunt for hogs. Those penalties may vary, but they could be significant due to the risks you could impose if you hunt illegally. 5. HUNTING WILD HOG: BRINGING YOUR DOG WITH YOU You can bring a hunting dog along with you for the adventure. You`ll want a stout breed like an American Bulldog, or a Rhodesian Ridgeback. But only bring your hunting dog if you have trained it to handle a hog hunting trip. NEVER allow a dog to hunt with you that is not prepared to hunt down wild pigs. Wild pigs can be extremely aggressive, so if your dog isn`t trained to recall on command, it`s definitely best to leave them at home. When you are talking about an aggressive male pig that can be up to 200 pounds, you`ll want a dog like the Lacy Dog that`s specifically bred for hunting these wild pigs. 6. WHAT TO DO WHEN A WILD HOG ATTACKS Although a good weapon can stop a wild hog in its tracks, watch out for when a hog might try to attack. Here`s what you can do if a hog chases after you: Instead of running, look for a tree or other high surface you can climb. It is often difficult for wild hogs to climb up trees. To evade a charge, step out of the hog`s direction. This is what a person would do when a bull charges them. After a while, the boar will be worn out and will stop charging. Don`t try to shoot at a wild pig when it charges at you. Such an attack could aggravate the boar even further. You could also hurt someone because the boar may run so fast, it is difficult to target it. Remember that wild hog often attack because they assume you are a threat. Be extra careful and observant when you are around a wild boar. Also, make sure you have a plan if it tries to attack you. 7. SOME FINAL WORDS ON WILD HOG HUNTING Wild hog hunting is a thrilling experience. The wild pig is a large, appealing animal to hunt down. But when doing so, observe where the wild boar roams and know what to do if it charges you. Make sure you have the right binoculars to see from a distance, bring some powerful weapons, and make sure you bring your patience. Know the rules for wild pig hunting in the area. Remember, they are in place for your legal and physical safety.

What is a Recurve Crossbow? Any avid hunter or arms enthusiast would have played with the idea of shifting from their usual array of guns and bullets to a more natural bow or crossbow. But the dilemma of anyone considering shifting to bows is that they tend to be unaware of the differences in the kind of equipment that one can use. It is very important to know the different kinds of crossbows available and what their advantages and disadvantages are in terms of functions. What is a Recurve Crossbow? Today, we are going to take a look at the recurve crossbow. This design is probably the oldest blueprint for crossbows as its original bow was basically patterned from the original recurve longbow. The term recurve pertains to the small [curves" at the end of the bow that point away from the shooter. Those curves function both as a strain and a lock so that the string will not flick out of the bow once fired. This kind of crossbow has been around for ages as their design was patterned from the early long bows of China, Greece and Egypt. What they did was to shorten the recurve long bows and mounted them on handles with locks and triggers. Most ancient recurve crossbows were found in drier places where harder but flexible wood were available for use. The ancient shooters preferred the recurve bows because they were shorter than the straight bows and it allowed them to shoot while on the move or when riding horses. Modern day recurve crossbows are still being produced for hunting and sport shooting. They still retain the recurve design on its main bow but manufacturers have included more modern features such as stabilization, scopes, cocks and sights. The modern day recurve crossbows are now usually made from carbon fiber, wood, aluminum or magnesium alloy. Modern recurve crossbows are also the staple design for professional shooting such as those being use in the Olympics. What are the Differences between Recurve and Compound Crossbows? The difference of the recurve crossbow with its counterpart compound crossbow is generally in size and strength. A recurve crossbow has a longer bow and has a longer draw length. This allows more acceleration for the projectile you use be it a bolt or a full arrow. The compound crossbow has a shorter bow but it gives an advantage in the reloading speed because of the shorter draw length. Another difference between the two crossbows is the sound they make. recurve crossbows tend to be louder because of the length while compound crossbows can be as quiet as they can get depending on the technology and design you use. For hunting, sound is an advantage as it could help you keep your prey at a safe distance and not worry about giving away your presence. On the other hand, the recurve crossbow offers more power and shot speed. The impact on your prey will determine if you can make the kill in one shot or not. It can also cover longer ranges with its power and projectile acceleration. However, among the disadvantages of recurve crossbows have something to do with their draw length. Because of the length of the bow, it applies more strain to the string. This means using less durable strings could mean there is more need to replace them often. The size of recurve crossbows also give a slight drawback as it means more weight to carry while you are on the prowl for prey. In between choosing for the kind of crossbow you would want to start with, a recurve crossbow offers power and projectile speed ensuring that one-shot-kill. It does, however, lack in weight and of course the strain on its string. If you plan on getting a crossbow for professional shooting on a range, the recurve crossbow might be the ideal choice as starter crossbow for you with its straight power and acceleration to cover longer distances on the shooting range. But it would not be advisable for long hunting trips that would demand you to carry the crossbow on walks and treks as the heavier weight would become a tiresome burden for you in the long run. Overall, a recurve crossbow is a great first try, most especially when shifting from guns. There are many recurve crossbow designs and makes out there with great functions and technology that can suit whatever your need will be.

Baiting vs. Food Plots: What`s the Difference? by Paul Annear Hunters have long argued the differences and similarities when it comes to baiting vs. food plots. Almost all hunters utilize strategy that includes hunting on or near a food source whether it be naturally occurring or manufactured. Mention a hint of the word baiting or food plots, and folks are sure to bring their full force of opinions. The baiting vs. food plots argument is somewhat new school vs. old school discussion, but this does not mean the debate will die anytime soon. Food-Plotter Argument Hunters tilling up dirt and spending more money on food plots than last month`s family grocery bill certainly is not a brand new concept. The increase in companies and hunting icons investing their time and money into the food plot industry has encouraged everyday hunters to essentially begin farming for deer. Right up front, most hunters strictly creating plots and not using bait will argue food plotting is different than baiting. The fact that food plots are very much dependent on outside circumstances is a go-to argument for food plotters. Creating a food plot is no guarantee and requires an area suitable for planting. This first step alone could take years of planning and strategizing. Once a site is chosen, you must have the sunlight, soil conditions, rainfall, and proper maintenance for that food plot to hold and attract deer. These variable and uncontrollable conditions of food plotting cause many hunters to believe food plots are extremely different from baiting. No food plot can be buried in a thicket surrounding a prime bedding area amid hills and creeks, bait can. For those who own their food plot equipment such as a tractor, disc or tiller, sprayer, and mower-it can become a massive investment requiring financial thought and consideration. Your budget can get out of hand quickly if you do not research and haphazardly overpay for equipment. Do not forget you will need a place to store this equipment if you own it-another small fortune. After you have emptied your wallet, you will need to spend considerable time and effort making your food plot dreams come true. Time must be spent prepping the site which may include spraying and tilling, followed by planting. If you live some distance from your property, time to spray and till or disc are typically spread out over a few weeks and can become a large commitment. If you are lucky enough to borrow equipment free of charge, a food plot can still be an expensive endeavor as spray, seed and fertilizer will add up quickly. Those hunters who strictly food plot would argue it is very different than baiting as too many outside factors influence the success of the plot. A dry growing season could result in a sun torched field of soybeans or cause your clover to go dormant until adequate rainfall returns, where supplement can be replenished anytime. The Baiting Argument Baiting is a long standing, traditional way of feeding and attracting deer. Popular whitetail states such as Wisconsin and Michigan have allowed baiting in most counties for a long time (although this is changing quickly). These two states see a high number of hunters who take advantage of this practice. Although bowhunters certainly take advantage of legal baiting, gun seasons account for most baiting and subsequent baiting related fines. In 2006, Wisconsin officials handed out 455 baiting citations, 299 of which occurred during the 9-day rifle hunt. Some hunters rely on bait for a successful hunt which may occur far from any food source. Many family hunting traditions involve re-stocking feeders and selectively choosing bait locations for the much anticipated rifle season. Hunters who set out bait for deer would argue it is part of the hunt and ingrained in their way of chasing whitetail. Many also say food plots essentially accomplish the same goal as baiting; concentrating deer on a food source. Those who bait might argue that a standing soybean field is in fact more attractive than a pile of supplement or corn. They may be correct, but a food plotter would argue that since a plot is spread out, a shot might not always present itself. Hunters setting out bait would also argue that many bucks are smart and do not always use bait during daylight hours. Bucks still use caution and approach a bait pile from the correct wind and during the right conditions; setting out bait guarantees nothing. While the latter is probably true, the differences between food plots and baiting are stark. Baiting vs. Food Plots – The Verdict In my opinion, the baiting vs. food plotting argument is an easy one. They are different due to the effort, time and outside factors influencing their success. I compare it to punching in a destination into a GPS showing multiple routes. While the result is ending up at the same location (hunting over food), the way in which you got there is very different. One route may be shorter and take you on the interstate, another could be slower and keep you on county roads with varying terrain and sharp turns. Another reason I believe they are different is due to the locations where bait can be placed. If you can walk to a location, you can place bait. That is not true with every desired food plot location. Food plots are dependent on weather and a variety of other factors, bait requires nothing more than money and effort to place and re-stock. Sure, bait requires the deer find it and use the supplement, but not much else is required. Boiling down the argument between food plots and bait is really about time, effort, and outside factors in my opinion. Are Food Plots Conservation? I`ve concluded that food plots are different from baiting, but are food plots a sustainable and responsible practice? Are food plots conservation? My first inkling was that food plots did not exactly fit into the conservation category. For an educated perspective, I reached out to Lindsay Thomas Jr., Communications Director for the Quality Deer Management Association. Lindsay claims, [anything we do to enhance nutrition, improve habitat, and aid us in sound herd management choices, is a step toward ensuring the sustainability of deer populations." Lindsay also said, [research from the University of Georgia shows that a broad range of non-game species such as insects, birds, and other mammals use food plot spaces, not just deer." Lindsay encourages hunters to utilize the tool of food plots, but mentions that habitat improvements [should not stop at the edge of the food plot opening", and that [native plants in the forest understory or in natural openings are the foundation of food and cover for deer, which they rely on every day of the year." Food plots can be considered part of the wide net of conservation, but food plots should be created in conjunction with other habitat improvements such as sustainable timber practices. ----------------From: www.bowhunting.com

4 Shooting Positions You Should Practice Before Opening Day Outside of Christmas, opening day of deer season just might be the single greatest day of the year. It`s a day we plan for with great expectation. All the prep work and practice leads up to the season we impatiently wait for all year. But has your practice included realistic shooting scenarios? It`s easy to thump a few arrows from the front porch a week before season, but have you gone through a regimen that pushes you to practice like you play? Have you shot with your camo on? Do you know how your string will hit your face, even when you`re wearing a mask? Now is the time to eliminate any surprises that could creep up on opening day. And if you haven`t done so already, now is the time to make sure you go through the different bow shooting positions to prepare you for a variety of circumstances and scenarios you might encounter in the treestand or ground blind. I was watching a hunting show the other day where a lady couldn`t draw her bow back from a seated position when a buck walked up at 12 yards. It was a disaster! She had practiced from a standing position, but couldn`t handle drawing from a seated position in the treestand. Don`t let this be you. Whether you`re hunting from a treestand or ground blind, here`s 4 shooting positions you should practice before opening day. Standing Yes, this is a no-brainer. Shooting from a standing position is what most of us do all summer long. But what you need to consider is practicing beyond your normal flat-footed, shoulder width apart stance. Practice with your feet together, spread apart, and on uneven ground. Consider your treestand platform and how much room you have to work with as you prepare for the shot. Rarely will things be perfect in the heat of the moment. Learn to shoot regardless of how your feet are positioned and pointed. Sitting As mentioned with the woman above, drawing your bow from a sitting position can surprise you. The back muscles used to make it happen will have to work a little extra when your legs and feet aren`t in play. This one comes back to bite countless treestand and ground blind hunters every year when they fail to practice the seated shot. Be sure to practice from a block or bucket, if not the actual stool or chair you`ll be using on the hunt. Kneeling The kneeling position can be one that provides a ton of flexibility while you`re hunting from a portable ground blind, or even a natural brush blind. In fact, I often ditch my ground blind chair when the shot opportunity arises so I can maneuver around for the best shot in the kneeling position. The kneeling position also allows you more flexibility when it comes to clearing the window and avoiding arrow contact with the blind. But it`s a shooting position that you need to practice. It may feel a little awkward at first, but with practice you`ll find this position to be a solid option that keeps you mobile in the moment of truth. Crouching Tiger You can bet your family and neighbors will laugh at you when they see you practicing this one, but it`s a shooting position that you need to make sure you practice before opening day. This shooting position is primarily for the treestand hunter. Think about it – how many times have you found yourself crouching in the treestand to slip an arrow under that branch or brush you should have cleared out before season? This position often comes when the chaos unfolds in the treestand. The inability to be flexible and shoot from a crouching/squatting position can cost you big time. Be sure to practice this one. It`s a lot harder than you think. It`ll test your balance like no other shot will. Shooting Positions You Should Practice – Conclusion If you`ve been slack in practicing any of these four shooting positions, be sure to do so before opening day rolls around. Eliminate any surprises from your shot routine and you`ll be ahead of the game when the opportunity presents itself this year. Have a great season – shoot straight! --------- From www.bowhunting.com

WHERE TO SHOOT A DEER: AIMING FOR THE BEST KILL ZONE SHOT PLACEMENT Any good hunter respects their prey, and a key part of that respect is to try and kill it humanely. Ideally you will take it with a single bullet or arrow. You should know where to shoot a deer regardless if you are hunting with a rifle or a bow. If you can`t reliably achieve one-shot kills you should practice until perfect and it`s as simple as that. Careless shooting that lets wounded animals escape gives anti-hunting groups ammunition to use against responsible hunters. Much worse, it leaves animals to suffer needlessly. To help you hit the mark in the most humane possible way, we`ve broken down all the details as well as put together a helpful infographic below. A DEER KILL ZONE INFOGRAPHIC WHY YOU WANT THE SINGLE SHOT KILL IF IT`S POSSIBLE The favorite quarry of American hunters is deer. This can make clean kills a challenge both with a rifle or with a bow. Deer is a good-sized animal. It takes a careful shot to bring it down regardless of what rifle or bow you`re using. One badly placed bullet will result in a wounded animal that will give you fits as you try to track it. It`s also inhumane as it may vanish into the wilderness dying a lingering death. Look at the average deer from the viewpoint of a responsible hunter and a big animal will quickly shrink to a few small target areas. Where it gets tricky is that experts often give conflicting advice on which shots to go for. Some say a brain shot is the only guarantee of a clean kill. Others insist on going for the heart. One thing you need to bear in mind is that many of the most experienced hunters are professionals. They might harvest hundreds of deer in a year, often using specialized equipment and methods. What works for them might not work for you. DEER HUNTING BASICS: RIFLES OR BOW? Our walk through help you understand where to shoot a deer and kill it with one shot. But the distances you need to be at for the hunt will vary greatly depending on your type of hunting. If you are hunting with a recurve bow, compound bow or crossbow (crossbow hunting is legal in some states, check yours for the regulations), ideally you will never be outside of 30 yards. If you are hunting with a rifle and a scope, you obviously have a lot more distance that you can plan for. If you are hunting with a rifle, you`ll need to make sure that you have a proper caliber, like a .308. Make sure you aren`t sticking with a small caliber like a .22 rifle. It`s also worth noting that there are other technological advances in hunting that can help you drop a deer cleanly. Consider using a trail camera to track deer in specific areas, or a laser rangefinder that can help you accurately judge the right distance of your prey. A pair of hunting binoculars can help as well if you are hunting from a tree stand. Let`s Jump in and look at the 5 primary targets that people use to take down deer. THE BRAIN SHOT: WHERE TO SHOOT A DEER WHEN THERE`S NO OTHER OPTION Well executed, this will drop a deer instantly. A bullet through the brain disrupts all life functions – it won`t go anywhere, it will lose consciousness right away and it won`t experience any pain. A solid hit in the brain is conclusive; there`s no room for doubt. This is a favored shot among many professionals, who often use light, frangible bullets to achieve instant and total disruption. A brain shot has another advantage, too – there`s little to no wastage of meat. On the other hand a deer`s brain is a small target. A heavy bullet that just misses can punch right through and leave the deer capable of escaping – but probably not surviving. Brain shots shouldn`t be attempted by bow hunters. The thickness of the bone in the head makes hitting it perfectly a very tricky measure, especially because the head is much smaller than the body. With regards to rifle hunting, a poor shot with a might glance off the skull. Worst of all is a shot in the jaw. That won`t kill the deer, but will leave it to starve to death. THE NECK SHOT: A PRETTY SLIM CHANCE OF A CLEAN KILL If you can cut the deer`s spinal cord with your first shot it will drop. Almost every time it will also lose consciousness right away and die very quickly. You`ll also cause relatively little damage to the meat but the shot placement is tricky. If you`re shooting from above and behind the neck shot is particularly effective, especially if you hit just below the base of the skull. Neck shots are an acceptable choice for rifle hunters but still a poor choice for bow hunters. If you are hunting with a bow you need to make sure you are well equipped with proper broadhead arrows and that you have a bow with enough draw weight. If you hit the deer in the upper portion of the neck, you will run the risk that the deer will run off and live. The problem with the neck is that if you don`t get the spinal cord the deer will take off. If you manage to sever the big arteries it won`t get far and should leave a dramatic blood trail. A hit lower in the neck will cause a wound that the animal is unlikely to recover from. Again that condemns it to a slow death. While it`s acceptable for rifle hunters, this is still a high risk shot and it not the preferable choice when hunting deer. THE HEART SHOT: ONE OF THE BEST OPTIONS FOR HUNTING DEER WITH BOWS & RIFLES Hit a deer in the heart and you`re usually going to put your bullet through both lungs too. This makes this a massively damaging and rapidly lethal shot. The downside is that it`s not as instantly lethal as the others. There`s a good chance of having to follow up for a short distance. Although the quarry will usually go down in a matter of seconds, and the profuse blood trail makes it easy to track even in thick brush. The up side is that the heart is a relatively large target compared to the brain or spine. This shot is a little more forgiving if your aim slightly off. You might get more runners, but there`s much less risk of a wounded animal actually escaping to die in the woods later. This goes for both bow hunting and rifle hunting. Aiming at the chest cavity is the largest part of the deer. This should be the number one spot you aim for regardless of if you are hunting with a bow or a rifle. The problem is that a shot that`s more than slightly off can clip a single lung. The animal could cover a long distance like that and even evade you completely. Light bullets can be deflected by a rib or shoulder blade and cause a painful wound that`s not rapidly fatal. If you`re going for the heart a .308 firing a heavy bullet is a good starting point and should ensure clean kills. Obviously the larger and more destructive your bullet, the more meat you`ll lose at the entry and exit points. If you are hunting with a bow, the chest cavity and heart is a prime place to hit your prey. THE LUNG SHOT: HIT A DOUBLE LUNG SHOT FOR AN EXTREMELY CLEAN KILL The Lungs are a prime area to aim for if you are hunting with a bow. While bullets can enter and exit the animal, a bow sticks in place making it incredibly hard for the deer to breathe, and will save you tracking headaches. A deer that cannot breathe isn`t going to run anywhere for long. Lung shots with a bow are almost as effective as heart shots, and the lungs are the largest targeted area that you can aim to hit when you hunt deer. You should aim for the middle of the lungs, which is slightly higher than the 10 ring (you`ll hear the 10 ring as a 10 inch space that`s the best spot for taking down a deer in most hunting circles). Hitting the deer with a double lung shot clear of the heart will cause the lungs to collapse and the deer will suffocate to death. This is usually a much quicker death. THE SHOULDER SHOT: RECOMMENDED FOR HIGH POWERED RIFLES ONLY Tricky, and reliant on a punchy rifle, the shoulder shot is also spectacularly effective but only if you do it right. If you are a bow hunter, don`t try the shoulder – stick with the lungs. The aim is to put your bullet through one shoulder blade. It will then traverse the chest cavity then hit the inside of the other shoulder blade. Get it right and the effects are catastrophic. The shock of the strike will paralyze the nervous system and break the spine. It will then disable the front legs, ensuring instant immobilization and a quick death. A deer shot neatly through both shoulders isn`t going anywhere. On the down side this shot needs a bullet that`s heavy enough to blow through a substantial bone before expanding. This tends to damage a lot of prime meat around the shoulders and upper backstrap. The shoulder is NOT the best place to shoot a deer if you are hunting with a bow. The thicker parts of the shoulder blade make it almost impossible to penetrate unless you are hunting with a bow that has the right draw weight for legal hunting in your state. Even then, there are no guarantees. It`s also one of the top spots that hunters claim to hit and still have the deer run off, turning into a tracking nightmare. It`s angle-dependent – a 90° flank shot is best. At shallow angles there`s a risk of the bullet not making it through the shoulder blade. That can leave you with a crippled, but still mobile, deer and a difficult follow-up shot. It`s also easy to miss high. If you have the right rifle and ammunition, this is a very reliable way to put a deer down with a single bullet. If you are hunting with a bow, stick with a chest cavity shot and aim for the heart or the lungs to walk away cleanly. WRAPPING UP & PARTING THOUGHTS So there are a few options for achieving the clean kills you need, and they all have their plus and minus points. There will never be a completely true consensus on which one is best. They all have their devotees – but all of them are capable of humanely dispatching a deer. Work out which one suits your own gear and techniques. Then, put the bullet or an arrow in the right place and you`ll get the result you want.

TIPS FOR HUNTING ELK ON PUBLIC LAND Posted by Timothy Brass We asked our Facebook fans [When it comes to finding elk on public land, what is one tip that you would give to a new elk hunter?" Overall, the top 3 public land elk hunting tips were: Locate and hunt backcountry areas far from roads, trails and hunting pressure. Scout. Be patient, be persistent and be willing to work for it. Here`s what we heard from fellow boots-on-the-ground, public land elk hunters on our Facebook Page. Have a public land elk hunting tip that you would like to share? Pass it along using the comments section below. Scout before the hunt. #1 rule!!!! Non-motorized access! Get away from the roads Study as much about elk and the area your hunting Research, research, research. Get as far from the roads as possible! Glass, glass then glass some more Your feet will hurt. Yep...public lands with no roads. Big game need big country. Wait. Get as far as you can from the road in the dark for first light. They're down at night and at the top in the day of hills that is. Go deep Scout, scout, scout. When they are bugling drive around at night and listen. Go back next morning where you heard them the night before. Make it your second job. Look for the spot you would least like to pack an elk out of and hunt it. Look for elk sign like this (see picture). If the elk aren't there, move!! Canyons!! Walk, walk and walk some more. Scout every chance you get. 20 feet from your truck, you are hunting, pay attention. You may be miles from camp, but it pays to call and listen on your way in. Go as often as you can. GET AWAY FROM THE ROADS & TRAILS!!!!!!! Cover a lot of ground, till you find good sign Start scouting now, and don't stop. So that in Sept. you know every draw and wallow. Road hunt! There are no elk beyond 1/4-mile of the road! Don't overlook any spots cause they ate too close to the road. Go where no else does, because a lot of people hunt general areas. Hunt the late season...and hope for snow...deep snow! Get the heck away from the roads!!!! Do your homework. Scout as often as possible. Pull up topo`s and use Google Earth of the area you're hunting. Get off the beaten path. Prepare to go steep and deep. Be in good shape. Always remember a successful trip is a safe trip! Have fun enjoy God's green earth! Boots on ground all summer long! Put on some miles! And hunt the rut if possible... Get out and walk. Farther from roads is usually better. But then again the only bull elk I bumped into this archery season was on a shelf 200 yards off a trail and I could hear 4 wheelers we were so close to a road when I bumped him and it happened to be his bedroom with rubs and beds all over. So they are unpredictable with where you will find them. Hunt from the moment you get out of the truck. This season was a great example for me. Although a campground was 1500ft away and a road not much further I found a lot of sign, fresh rubs and heard elk nearby. Be ready from the start. Also start high and work into benches. Put in the miles and find sign. If they aren't there, they aren't there. Don't be afraid to move and find another area. You never know when you will cross their path and be in them. Especially if you`re in a general season area and other hunters have them on the move or pushed into deep canyon benches. Not there, find some private land... Get off the roads. Buy a beef. Start high – 8,000 feet or higher. When you hear them- move in their direction...don't wait and hope that they walk by your location. Oh, and don't hesitate to run after them...you can catch them!!! Find the nastiest, most remote area. Get up high above where you think they might be bedded. Glass and listen. This keeps the wind in your favor longer. Most of the time it`s better to ambush 'em than to call to 'em on high pressured public land. Watch 'em when they come out and try to ease in on them, or if wind is good, get in front of them. You can ease in on him if he's bedded, if conditions are right. Be aggressive but be smart about it. Good luck. Go boldly- where no one has gone before... Elk are only where you find them. Patience- measured in years. Go deep!!!!!! Get off the roads. Be in shape. Use the quads God gave you!!!!!! Use enough gun! Elk are only where they find you. Persistence. Pick an area large enough to contain the seasonal movements of the resident elk and preferably an area without motorhead access. Early, mid- and late season elk have different haunts depending on hunting pressure, weather, and snow depth. Learn the area's topography and features (water, feed, and travel routes) like the back of your hand and be prepared to hunt when and where other folks don't. Get up early and stay out late. Have a good attitude. Any elk on public land is a trophy. Keep hunting and stay away from the roads. Scout, scout, and more scout! Be patient! Hit the national forests just on the northside of yellowstone national park during the late fall. Tom Miner basin is prime elk hunting country you just have to be careful of the grizzlies. Bring a 4-wheeler or buddies to quarter and pack out. Hillsides with large pastures are the best in late fall. Scout. Keep hiking until you don`t see another hunter. Glass a lot. Hunt in crappy weather. Remember why you are there. Work ridges for the high ground, move slow, and use quality optics. You always find sign, and therefore elk, 3/4 of the way up a mountain. Also look for water. And don't forget to take it all in. Don't take it for granted, there are guys and gals that would kill to get to do what we do for fun. Park your truck or ATV and go for a nice long hike... I would say do lots of scouting and talk to the local older hunters in the area because they may have lots of great tips for you. Get away from the road, other hunters, and ATVs.

Draw Length Draw Length is the distance from the nock point to the throat of the grip plus 1 3/4". Typically, this length will also be about the same length of arrow needed by the compound archer. To measure your draw length, stand with your back to a wall stretching your arms out against the wall. Measure the distance from the end of your middle finger to the end of your other middle finger, basically the length of both arms, hands and chest. This measurement, minus 15 then divided by 2, is your draw length. Resist the temptation to make your draw length longer than it should be, as this will affect your accuracy. Your wingspan typically is the same as your height in inches. So your height in inches minus 15 and then divided by 2 will be your draw length, or at least a very good starting point. Just use our handy dandy draw length calculator at the top of this page. Will a string loop change my draw length? Since the draw length is the distance from the nock point to the throat of the grip plus 1 3/4", adding a string loop cannot change the bow's draw length. BUT, it will change your anchor point moving it back 1/2" to 3/4". This will make it feel like your draw length is longer. If you want your same anchor point, then you will need to shorten the bow's draw length by about a 1/2" to move your anchor point back up to your preference. Draw Weight Draw Weight is the peak amount of weight an archer will pull while drawing the bow. With a traditional bow, the draw weight continues to increase as the bow is drawn. A compound bow will increase to the peak weight, and then drop in weight to the holding weight. The holding weight is typically 20-30% of the peak weight. So a 60# compound bow will only hit 60# for period in the draw cycle, and then will drop down to perhaps a 15# holding weight at anchor. This allows the archer to hold on target much longer than a traditional bow, whose archer would be holding the full 60#s. High performance bows will stay at this peak weight longer during the draw cycle thus storing more energy but typically creating a harsher draw cycle. Compound bows are adjustable over a 10 to 15 # range. The weight listed is with the limbs bottomed out, or at the maximum peak weight. So a bow listed at 70#'s is adjustable from 60-70#, and sometimes 55-70#. A new archer will be able to pull about 10 pounds more weight with a few weeks of regular practice as previously little used muscles gain strength. Use this chart to see typical draw weights: Small child 50-70 lbs 10-15 lbs Child 70-100 lbs 15-25 lbs Most women, boys from 100 - 130 lbs 30-40 lbs Women above average strength; youth boys 130 - 150 lbs 40-50 lbs Most men 150-180 lbs Target 40-55 lbs Most men 150-180 lbs Bowhunting or 3D 50-65 lbs Muscular young men and larger men 180 lbs and up 60-70 lbs Resist the temptation to pull too much draw weight. It isn't fun to shoot when drawing the bow is a struggle. It also is not good for your shoulders and other joints. Bowhunters will find they may not be able to draw their bow in cold weather or sitting in awkward positions. A modern 60# compound is capable of killing any North American big game, from elk to moose and certainly more than capable of taking deer.

2018 - 2019 Hunting Season Dates Alligator 22 Counties & special properties: Sep. 10 - 30, 2018 All Other Counties: Apr. 1 - June 30, 2019 Chachalaca Cameron, Hidalgo, Starr & Willacy Counties: Nov. 3, 2018 - Feb. 24, 2019 Dove North ZoneSep. 1 - Nov. 4, 2018 & Dec. 21, 2018 - Jan. 14, 2019Central ZoneSep. 1 - Nov. 4, 2018 & Dec. 21, 2018 - Jan. 14, 2019South ZoneRegular season: Sep. 14 - Oct. 30, 2018; Dec. 14, 2018 - Jan. 21, 2019Additional days for Special White-winged Dove season: Sep. 1, 2, 8, 9 (special regulations apply) Duck North ZoneRegular season: Nov. 10 - 25, 2018 & Dec. 1, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Dusky duck: Nov. 15 - 25, 2018 & Dec. 1, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Youth-only: Nov. 3 - 4, 2018South ZoneRegular season: Nov. 3 - 25, 2018 & Dec. 8, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Dusky duck: Nov. 8 - 25, 2018 & Dec. 8, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Youth-only: Oct. 27 - 28, 2018High Plains Mallard Management Unit (HPMMU)Regular season: Oct. 27 - 28, 2018 & Nov. 2, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Dusky duck: Nov. 5, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Youth-only: Oct. 20 - 21, 2018 Gallinule, Rail, Moorhen Sep. 15 - 30, 2018 & Nov. 3 - Dec. 26, 2018 Goose East ZoneEarly Canada goose: Sep. 15 - 30, 2018Light & dark geese: Nov. 3, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019Light goose conservation order: Jan. 28 - Mar. 17, 2019West ZoneLight & dark geese: Nov. 3, 2018 - Feb. 3, 2019Light goose conservation order: Feb. 4 - Mar. 17, 2019 Javelina North Zone: Oct. 1, 2018 - Feb. 24, 2019 South Zone: Sep. 1, 2018 – Aug. 31, 2019 Mule Deer General SeasonPanhandle: Nov. 17 - Dec. 2, 2018SW Panhandle: Nov. 17 - 25, 2018Trans-Pecos: Nov. 23 - Dec. 9, 2018Archery SeasonSep. 29 - Nov. 2, 2018 Pheasant Panhandle: Dec. 1 - 30, 2018 Pronghorn Sep. 29 - Oct. 7, 2018 Quail Statewide: Oct. 27, 2018 - Feb. 24, 2019 Rabbits & Hares No closed season. Sandhill Crane Zone A: Oct. 27, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019 Zone B: Nov. 23, 2018 - Jan. 27, 2019 Zone C: Dec. 15, 2018 - Jan. 20, 2019 Squirrel East Texas: Oct. 1, 2018 - Feb. 24, 2019 & May 1 - 31, 2019 Other Open Counties: Sep. 1, 2018 - Aug. 31, 2019 Special Youth Season: Sep. 29 - 30, 2018 Snipe Oct. 27, 2018 - Feb. 10, 2019 Teal Sep. 15 - 30, 2018 Turkey Rio Grande Turkey Fall SeasonNorth Zone: Nov. 3, 2018 - Jan. 6, 2019South Zone: Nov. 3, 2018 - Jan. 20, 2019Brooks, Kenedy, Kleberg & Willacy counties: Nov. 3, 2018 - Feb. 24, 2019Archery-Only: Sep. 29 - Nov. 2, 2018Fall Youth-OnlyNorth Zone: Oct. 27 - 28, 2018 & Jan. 7 - 20, 2019South Zone: Oct. 27 - 28, 2018 & Jan. 21 - Feb. 3, 2019Spring SeasonNorth Zone: Mar. 30 - May 12, 2019South Zone: Mar. 16 - Apr. 28, 2019One-turkey counties: April 1 - April 30, 2019Spring Youth-OnlyNorth Zone: Mar. 23 - 24, 2019 & May 18 - 19, 2019South Zone: Mar. 9 - 10, 2019 & May 4 - 5, 2019 Eastern Turkey Spring SeasonEast Texas: Apr. 22 - May 14, 2019 White-tailed Deer General SeasonNorth Zone: Nov. 3, 2018 - Jan. 6, 2019South Zone: Nov. 3, 2018 - Jan. 20, 2019Special Late SeasonNorth Zone: Jan. 7 - 20, 2019South Zone: Jan. 21 - Feb. 3, 2019Youth-Only SeasonsEarly Season: Oct. 27 - 28, 2018Late Season: Jan. 7 - 20, 2019Archery SeasonSep. 29 - Nov. 2, 2018Muzzleloader-Only SeasonJan. 7 - 20, 2019 Woodcock Dec. 18, 2018 - Jan. 31, 2019

DO DEER MOVE IN THE RAIN AND WIND? WHITETAIL & RED DEER BAD WEATHER HUNTING TIPS Regardless of whether or not we like to admit it, we humans are creatures of comfort. After all, we build nice, cozy, houses to keep us warm in the winter, cool in the summer, and dry when it rains. We like to sleep on nice, comfortable mattresses or sleeping bags. We also have pantries, refrigerators, ranges, and microwaves in our kitchens so that our favorite foods are readily available any time we want them. We bring sleeping bags, camping stoves and large family tents on our hunting or outdoor trips in order to keep ourselves in the highest levels of comfort. Whitetail deer have no such luxuries. Instead, they live outdoors where it`s hot in the summer, cold in the winter, and wet when it rains. Also, unlike we humans, deer have neither pantries nor refrigerators, so they have to eat what is available in their area at any given time of year. Deer are quite accustomed to a level of hardship that most humans avoid like a stranger that wants to borrow money! All of this translates to the fact that deer hunting is not only viable in bad weather conditions , but sometimes even preferable depending on the area. Wrapping Up: Whitetail deer are also far better adapted to a life outdoors than humans are. They not only have metabolisms that enable them to withstand cold temperatures that would freeze most humans to death, they also have their own fur coats whereas, we humans have to appropriate ours from other animals or make them from synthetic fibers. Because we humans tend to studiously avoid hunting in bad weather, we are amazingly adept at convincing ourselves that whitetail deer feel the same way that we do about it! But because deer live outdoors twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week and have warm, waterproof, fur coats, as well as a need to feed daily – the fact is that they have far less aversion to traveling and feeding in bad than we humans do. Many an experienced hunter has also observed that deer seem to have some innate sixth sense that warns them when a storm is approaching about as far ahead as our modern weather forecasters can predict and thus, they do tend to feed more actively during the couple of days prior to the storm`s arrival just in case the weather does turn out to be severe enough that it prevents them from moving beyond their bedding areas. This can make for an exciting crossbow hunting trip in the most daunting conditions. When hunting deer, you have to keep in mind that adverse weather will impact your hunting tactics more if you are compound bow hunting versus if you are hunting with a 308 or a 30-06. Hunting Binoculars will come in handy as will rangefinders to ensure that you are measuring the most accurate distances while taking wind into calculation of your shooting trajectories. Let`s look at how deer move around during adverse weather conditions. DEER MOVEMENT DURING WINDY CONDITIONS: Deer seldom seem to mind a light breeze that simply rustles the tips of ground level foliage a bit, they do tend to avoid moving during periods of high winds because this type of wind makes it very difficult to detect and identify predators since it shreds their scent and makes it difficult for them to determine which direction it`s coming from. This makes it very difficult for them to hear a predator approaching over the rustling of the brush. This makes spotting predators difficult because of all of the moving foliage also hides the predator`s movement. On days when the wind is light and, especially when it`s steady from a single direction rather than swirling first from one direction and then another, they tend to move and feed very actively. They are not only able to use the steady breeze to approach their favored food sources from downwind while detecting any predators waiting in ambush, but the slight rustling of the bushes helps to cover the sound of their steps as they travel; thus increasing their level of stealth. Keep in mind that if you are bow-hunting, you absolutely must make the right judgment call on accounting for the wind in your aiming trajectories. Not doing so will likely cost you a clean kill. DEER MOVEMENT DURING RAINY CONDITIONS: The same can be said for light rains versus torrential downpours. In fact, during periods of heavy rain, deer also have difficulty smelling, seeing, or hearing predators approach and thus, they also avoid moving during these periods until the rain either slackens or quits. The same can be said for light rains since a light rains tends to soften the leaf litter under hoof. This silences their footsteps and it helps to prevent their scent from traveling and alerting predators to their movements as well. Rather than pass away the hours dreaming about deer hunting while remaining warm by the fire during periods of inclement weather, experienced hunters have instead learned to use bad weather to their advantage. In fact, simply by watching your local weather report, you can actually predict when the best time to go hunting for whitetail & red deer is! Deer have an incredible, innate, ability to sense approaching storms (probably by noting the smell of the air combined with subtle differences in barometric pressure) and thus, they are forewarned that the weather will soon turn. While deer don`t seem to be bothered much by light winds and/or light rains, they do tend to bed down in both heavy winds and heavy rains. A good altimeter watch can help you notice differences in air pressure as well, so you can pickup on incoming storms in the same fashion as the deer you hunt. Because deer are forewarned of approaching storms, they tend to feed lightly both prior to and after minor storms and to feed heavily prior to and after major storms. Deer are fully aware that minor storms are little hindrance to them but, major storms may very well force them into their beds for an undetermined period of time. Similar to heavy rain and other hard weather conditions, deer act similarly in both light and heavy snowfall and most especially for blizzards. This behavior has been seen and documented well on different trail and game cameras. Deer will often feed lightly prior to and after the first few snows of early winter. Just as soon as they sense a major snowstorm arriving, they will drastically increase their feeding activities. Deer can often be seen feeding throughout the day prior to a storm so that they can consume and store as much food as possible before the storm arrives and drives them to their deep woods havens. Deer have a high metabolic rate and use up energy at a much faster rate than humans. They have no way to gather and store for food for convenient consumption at will like humans do. So when deer are forced to stay in their beds for extended periods of time by extremely harsh weather, they are often ravenously hungry when the weather finally passes. As a result, they also tend to feed heavily after the passing of a major storm. Both prior to and after the arrival of a major storm are both excellent times to go deer hunting because the deer will be not only be feeding actively, they will also be single-mindedly focused on their task making them less wary than usual. DEER MOVEMENT DURING PERIODS OF SEVERE COLD: While we have so far discussed how whitetail deer react to wind, rain, and snow, we have not yet discussed their reaction to extreme cold. The fact is that human hunters use excessively cold temperatures as an excuse not to go hunting just as often as wind, rain, and snow! Deer live outdoors twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week and, because they have a thick fur coat made from course, hollow, hairs combined with relatively thick skin and a thick layer of subcutaneous fat. They are not bothered by the extremes in weather that so discomfit humans with our thin skins and lack of fur. But, that is not to say that deer are altogether unaffected by cold weather. In fact, their reaction to cold is very similar to their reaction to both wind and rain in that as long the cold is relatively mild, they tend to be significantly more active. They are more active in feeding than earlier in the year because their bodies require more calories to generate heat in cold weather. Just like days when the wind is howling at gale force and/or the monsoon rains have arrived and the whole forest sounds like the Amazon Jungle in a downpour, during periods when the overnight lows dip down to single digits and below due to an arctic blast from the north, deer then tend to stay in their beds until mid or late morning. They do this in order to conserve valuable body heat and then rise and move out to feed once the Sun has been up for a while and the ambient air temperature has risen a bit. They also tend to feed most heavily just prior to the arrival of such air masses so that they can store enough energy to allow them to be able to lounge in their beds until the air warms a bit. WRAPPING UP: As you can see, while many whitetail & red deer hunters find inclement weather to be both inconvenient and uncomfortable with good reason, the fact of the matter is that the couple days just prior to the arrival of a major storm or cold air mass as well as the first couple of days after its passing can actually provide hunters with the best possible opportunity to fill their tags for the season. Rather than disparage bad weather, deer hunters should instead learn to embrace it since both its coming and going herald some of the best days of the year to go hunting!

HOW TO SHOOT A CROSSBOW FOR BEGINNERS: TIPS & TACTICS The crossbow, based on the traditional bow, is a mechanical device that shoots projectiles called bolts. It`s capable of cleanly taking down the biggest North American game, and it can be deadly accurate. The crossbow is used in many states for many different types of hunting. While it is banned for use in some states, depending on what you hunt, the hunting crossbow is one of the most uniquely used hunting tools on today`s market. While you won`t get many bow hunting tips in this article, you will definitely learn the basics of how to shoot a crossbow once you`ve found the right crossbow for your hunting expeditions. STEP 1: COCK THE BOW Cocking the crossbow takes a little patience to learn. There two methods for cocking the bow: Manual and crank-operated. To cock the bow manually, put your foot in the stirrup at the front of the bow and pull the crossbow string back evenly across both sides of the barrel until it is cocked. This is something of a chore with modern hunting crossbows, which unlike common recurve bows or compound bows, have draw weights over 150 lbs. If you don`t pull straight you can misalign the bow and your aim will be off. A rope cocking tool can make the manual cocking process easier, helps center the string better, and is recommended by a lot of hunters. A rope cocker is essentially a simple pulley system. To use a rope cocker, first get the cocker into position, insert your foot into the stirrup, grab the rope cocker`s pull handles, and pull the handles up until the crossbow string is cocked. Once it`s cocked, store the rope cocker until you need it again. A crossbow crank will definitely be easier to use than manual cocking, but it will take longer. A lot longer, so if you`re in a hurry the crank isn`t the way to go. A crossbow crank is nothing more than a winch. Some cranks are separate devices, and some are integrated into the bow. To crank cock a crossbow, engage the crank, and turn it until the string is cocked. Then put the crank back into place, or into its holder. STEP 2: LOAD THE BOW Once the crossbow is fully cocked, place an arrow in the barrel of the crossbow, aligning the cock vane of the arrow in the barrel channel. Nock the arrow securely into place. STEP 3: AIM Hunting crossbows are equipped with a sight pin arrangement or mount scope through which to aim, such as an optical scope with a reticle. You need to sight in, and prepare to shoot. But first- A word of warning: Make sure there are no obstructions that could get in the way of the limbs when they snap forward or injury is likely. Similarly, do not wrap your thumb around the crossbow forearm. STEP 4: SHOOT Once you have the target sighted, squeeze the trigger just as you would a rifle`s, keeping the target aligned in your sights. As you squeeze tighter you`ll hear the pop of the trigger release as the bow fires and the bolt hurtles toward the target. Getting your scope set up properly with your crossbow will take some adjustments, much like the adjustments you make to your rifle. But once its sighted in and you`re hitting the bullseye, you`re ready for action!

Crossbow Deer Hunting – The 8 Best Tips & Tactics for Success Crossbows are powerful and sensitive pieces of hunting equipment, and it can take years to master the art of crossbow deer hunting. It`s a skill that requires patience, a steady hand and a firm grasp of the concept of aerodynamics. Hunting deer with a rifle is challenging enough but learning how to successfully hunt deer with a crossbow takes things to an entirely new level. Below we`ve broken down the eight best tips and tactics for hunters who want to improve their crossbow hunting skills. www.deeranddeerhunting.com Click to View Post Navigation [show] 1. Know the Law Hunting regulations can be difficult to understand and adding crossbows to the mix only complicates matters. After you learn that crossbows in general are permitted you should determine if there are any equipment restrictions. Next, you need to find out exactly when they are permitted and specifically how they are to be used. Many states have head and minimum draw requirements. If you can`t find any specific information on crossbow deer hunting in your state then look for generic archery regulations and talk to other hunters who use crossbows for hunting deer. 2. Stay Ethical Ethical crossbow hunting means displaying respect for yourself, nature, the deer and other individuals (whether or not they are hunters). Avoid hunting fawns as they will keep deer populations healthy for future generations. Don`t kill simply for sport – use as much of the animal as possible and always try to make a clean kill. Only hunt in season and avoid trespassing or using illegal baits to lure deer to you. Sticking to [fair chase" rules is what makes hunting an honorable pastime. 3. Practice, Practice, Practice Your crossbow shouldn`t be collecting dust when deer are out of season. These deadly devices can be catastrophic in the wrong hands so you should practice consistently year-round. Attend archery classes and engage in target practice with fellow crossbow hunters on a regular basis. Staying in shape and in practice all year will make you a safer and more accurate hunter when a deer crosses your line of sight. 4. Make Safety Your Primary Concern An arrow through the head is only entertaining when it`s nothing more than a novelty hat. Your crossbow`s safety should always be on until you have a clear shot. As is the case with guns, with crossbows you should never point the bow at anyone or anything that you aren`t preparing to shoot, and you should always be aware of what is on the other side of your target. You should always have a well-stocked first aid kit on hand that includes bandages, gauze, scissors, eye wash, smelling salts, alcohol wipes, sterile pads, latex gloves, aspirin, medical tape, a tourniquet, blister pads and hydrocortisone or another type of cream to soothe cuts or insect bites. Keep a fully-charged cell or satellite phone handy too, in case you need to call for help. 5. Select the Proper Bow and Arrow Combination Deer hunting will require you to use a crossbow with a draw of 75-125 pounds. Certain areas have draw requirements for specific types of game so be sure to look into that before choosing a bow. The draw weight determines the speed of the arrow when it is released. Many crossbows are outfitted with dampeners and scopes, but you can also buy aftermarket parts and add them to your bow. Crossbows are available in different materials, and as a general rule crossbows that are more lightweight and silent cost more. Arrow selection is of the utmost importance. Arrows are usually made of aluminum, carbon or a composite of both of these materials. Aluminum arrows are more precise, but they are not as durable as carbon or composite arrows. Inexperienced hunters will likely want to start off with carbon arrows and work their way up to the more accurate yet more fragile aluminum arrows. You might also want to look into full metal jacket arrows, which are more expensive but are known for being deadly accurate, fast and durable. Most arrows are between 15-23 inches long and you should check the crossbow manufacturer`s recommendations to make sure you use arrows of an appropriate length. 6. Take Advantage of Modern Technology You can add equipment to your bow or carry certain tools with you that will aid your crossbow deer hunting efforts. Use a scope sight because even though many crossbows have open sights a scope sight will greatly increase your accuracy. Rangefinders are also extremely useful for crossbow hunters as they can tell you the exact distance from you to the target with just the click of a button. You might also want to invest in a cocking device to make bringing the bow to full draw easier on yourself. Another tip that expert crossbow hunters recommend is to use a rest. You can also use shooting sticks or a pod to give the bow more stability and take some of the workload off your arms. 7. Care for Your Gear Your arrows need to be sharpened before each hunt. You should also keep an eye on your strings and cables as they can wear easily and need to be replaced regularly. Caring for your gear also means keeping everything clean and organized when you aren`t hunting. This guideline doesn`t just apply to your bow and arrows but to every single piece of hunting equipment you use. 8. Remain Completely Undetectable Deer are known for their finely-tuned senses of sight, smell, and hearing. Wear as much camouflage as you can, and use rubber boots to avoid leaving behind scents that could be picked up. Your clothing should be washed with scent-free detergent prior to the outing, and you should seal it in a plastic box until you`re ready to hunt. Keep scent eliminator on you at all times and use it on your clothing, gear, tree stands, blinds, and trail camera locations. Be aware of wind direction and stay downwind of potential targets. Keep movement and noise to a minimum at all times, and have your crossbow cocked and ready so you are fully prepared to take the shot when an opportunity presents itself. Conclusion There is no feeling like successfully bagging a big buck with a perfectly-placed arrow from a crossbow. We hope you found these eight crossbow deer hunting tips, tricks and tactics helpful. What strategies do you employ to give yourself a better shot at success with a crossbow? We`d love to hear your suggestions, questions and other remarks regarding this topic in the Comments section below.

Recurve vs. Compound Crossbows: What`s the Difference? Recurve or compound? It`s probably the biggest debate in the crossbow world and hunters will defend their camp to a fault. At the same time, most hunters are biased towards the type of crossbow they shoot, making it difficult to get an objective opinion on which is better. The truth is there are excellent recurve and excellent compound crossbows, and the type that is right for you comes down to your personal preferences. What`s the Difference? Recurve Crossbow vs. Compound Crossbow? The two types of crossbows differ in how they store the tension necessary to fire a arrow. Recurve bows use the same principle that bows have used for thousands of years: a bowstring causes two flexible limbs to bend as the string is pulled back. The more modern compound crossbow uses a series of cams and cables to create a mechanical advantage that assist the bowstring in bending the limbs, which are more more rigid than those found on a recurve crossbow. Both types of crossbows have their advantages and disadvantages; the one that is right for you is determined by the type of hunting you do and the drawbacks that you`re willing to accept with your crossbow. Power Compound crossbows are capable of firing arrows at much higher velocities compared to recurve crossbows. Their mechanism allows for greater tension in the limbs, which translates into faster arrow velocity. Combined with a heavier arrow, higher velocity translates into higher kinetic energy (takedown power). Your shots will fly further, with less drop, and sink deeper into your target with a compound crossbow. Recurve crossbow are getting better, but are unable to match the power of compound crossbow at this time. Dependability In bow hunting, accuracy is the name of the game. You can discuss the velocity and kinetic energy of arrows all day long, but when it comes down to it, shot placement is what matters. You want a crossbow that puts the arrow exactly where your sight says it will, shot after shot. When it comes to dependability, the recurve bow wins by using fewer moving parts. The cams on a compound crossbow can get out of tune, meaning the limbs are out of tune and you can`t count on the arrow going where you want it to. To fix this problem, you`ll almost certainly need to take it to a bow technician. Recurve bows don`t have this problem as the tension from the bowstring naturally pulls on the limbs with equal force. Durability Durability is a toss up between the two styles of crossbows. On one hand, compound crossbows have more moving parts, which means there`s more points of failure. However, recurve crossbows exert more strain on the bowstring as it`s less efficient at storing all that tension. This means that the bowstring will need to be replaced more often. If you`re someone that is meticulous with their maintenance schedule, that won`t be a problem, and it`s a whole lot easier to replace a bowstring every few hundred shots than it is to fix a cam on a compound bow. Size Recurve crossbows are, by necessity, larger than compound crossbows. Compound crossbows are able to use shorter, more rigid limbs as the cams provide a mechanical advantage to the user in pulling the bowstring back. Climbing a tree and sitting in a stand with a compound crossbow will probably be easier and more comfortable. Noise Admittedly this isn`t a huge concern for most crossbow hunters – by the time the deer hears the sound of your bow, the arrow will have already hit them. That being said, compound bows are quieter, which gives you a better chance at taking a second shot. The longer draw length and more flexible limbs mean there`s a lot more vibration and noise that comes with firing a arrow. If you want to stay as silent as possible, a compound crossbow is the way to go. Cost If you were to compare two equally performing crossbows, one recurve and one compound, the recurve will almost always be less expensive. This is another case of moving parts being a problem for the compound crossbow, there`s just more that goes into them and that causes the cost to rise. Compound crossbows can be twice as expensive as a comparable recurve crossbow, which makes the later a great choice for those just getting into the sport. Decocking One of the most annoying problems with a compound bow is that they don`t have a decockingmechanism. You have to end your hunt by firing one of your arrows into a target. With a recurve crossbow, you need only remove the arrow and uncock the bow. Recurve Crossbow vs. Compound Crossbow: Which is Right for You? There`s no right or wrong crossbow to buy, there`s only the type that best suits your preferences. If you`re new to the sport, want a crossbow with less complicated maintenance and a lower price tag, a recurve bow is probably the right choice. If, on the other hand, you`ve been bowhunting for a few years now and would like something quieter, more compact, and with greater stopping power, you`ll almost certainly want a compound bow. It all comes down to personal preference though, and there`s a lot more that goes into a successful hunt than the type of crossbow you`re carrying.

One thing we all do as archers is aim. Some do this differently than others, but to shoot with any consistency we must incorporate some form of aiming into our shot. Several factors, including breathing, heart rate and focus, affect aiming. In one of my previous articles, I talked about aiming drills, but here I am talking about actual things that help or hurt how well you aim. Breathing techniques are used quite often in archery competition but are normally overlooked while bowhunting. Sometimes we forget to breathe altogether when that big buck is coming in. Obviously, taking breaths while aiming causes your pin to bob up and down as your chest heaves; this is not ideal. I like to breathe as I draw and take a final breath as my pin settles on the target, holding that air in my lungs as I execute the release. Taking a breath too early can cause panic, and you will rush the shot. So, be sure to breathe up until the last few seconds. One thing that affects aiming that we can`t really do a lot about is our heart rate. Adrenaline causes our heart rate to rise, which makes our arms, hands and entire body a little more shaky than normal. Knees knocking together can make aiming a lot more difficult, but I`ve been there many times! The most important thing is to put yourself in that situation as much as possible so you learn what your sight picture will look like and how to focus through that. I`ve found that when I`m under extreme pressure and my pin is quivering all over that if I just make a great shot on my release hand, nine times out of 10 the arrow hits the middle. Always focus on a small spot, and even if you`re shaking, your subconscious is bringing your pin back to that spot. I think it will surprise you how well you can shoot under extreme pressure if you don`t let it control you and you can make a clean, calm shot on the back end. Read more: http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics/aiming/tips-to-help-your-focused-aiming/#ixzz5GjYKLSAU

Rookie Mistakes - Letting past failures be your friends. This past season, author John Dudley avoided another disaster in British Columbia by making sure his broadheads were dialed in before his bear hunt. After months in the treestand, seeing nothing but birds, raccoons and opossums, I finally saw a glimmer of antlers in the Illinois marsh. It was a buck worth waiting for: a giant, mature 10-pointer. The early season had passed, as had the peak rut. At this point, it was a longshot for me to even see a deer - let alone the one I had dreamed about for years. He was cruising the one trail leading to the only stand I got permission to hang. He was a needle in a haystack, but luck had us 30 yards apart, and he was closing the distance one step at a time. My heart was beating like a drum; I felt it in my throat and would swear the buck could have heard it too. I had my first new bow in my hand, and the opportunity to put it to use was seconds away. With my heart in my throat and quivering hands, I raised my bow and began to draw. I pulled harder and harder on the string as the buck continued its approach. He was now less than five yards away. As each second went by, I quivered and strained and pulled and tugged, yet the string did nothing. It was frozen like a piece of concrete! I stopped pulling and pointed the bow right at the buck, which was now directly under my tree. This time, I really leaned into it and gave it everything I had. As I pulled and tugged and tried to compose myself, the buck just casually walked away at a perfect shot angle one step at a time until, finally, he was out of range. I almost cried. What the heck happened? Well my friends, I`ve done some stupid things that have cost me big time in the woods, and this was one of the first, and worst, rookie mistakes. This article is all about the things I`ve done wrong as a bowhunter and what I have learned to do differently so that I have success rather than another story of the one that walked away! Manage Your Weight The story I just told you is true. I was a teenager and had saved up to buy my first bow. I had others, but they were all hand-me-downs. . This was my first [new" bow. I was young and was lured in by its impressive speed. Much like my motorcycle, I wanted something faster than my friends. I didn`t think about accuracy or practicality when I bought that 80-pound bow. As I wrote this article, I Googled this model to find the specs, and one of the first comments I found in an online forum was this description of the bow: [The [bows] were wrist-slapping rockets in their time-very radical, high-reflex designs with low brace heights that made them very critical to fit and form for good accuracy." Well, to whoever wrote this, you are right on the money with that description! Don`t be afraid to back down your draw weight to ensure you can still draw your bow under adverse conditions in the field. My mistake was not the bow; it was my ego and not knowing how to manage my draw weight. The part of the story I left out was the ending. Once the buck walked out of sight and my nerves settled, I gave the bow one last tug to see what the heck was going on. And guess what? I pulled it back. The problem was that the draw weight was at my maximum, not what was easy. It`s like working out in the gym. Sometimes you can do your max weight, and other days you just can`t. If you set up your bow to where it is achieving max velocity with your maximum effort, it may come at a serious price of missing your only opportunity of the season. Looking back, I realize I couldn`t pull the bow very easily in practice and often had to raise the bow to the sky to draw it back. My practice time was limited to how many times I could pull the bowstring back. The wise choice is to shoot a bow you can pull back while in a seated position while the bow is on a level plane. If you have to raise the bow high, lean back as you draw or thrust your hips and shoulder forward to get it back, then you aren`t managing your weight. Learn from my mistake and hunt with a draw weight you can control in any condition, and you will be able to make the shot you need, when you need it. Look to the Future I was 10 miles deep into a huge Alberta river basin. The GPS showed we had hiked more than 70 miles looking for a chance at an elk. We were exhausted, wet and had about an hour of daylight remaining on the last day of the hunt. Yup, things were looking pretty bleak! Experience has taught John Dudley to become more successful by anticipating the future. Study the animal`s direction of travel and already be anchored at full draw when the shot opportunity arises. I let out another bugle, expecting to hear nothing in return, since that is exactly what I had heard the previous seven days. Yet this time, a bull fired up and bugled back on top of mine. He was close, and honestly, it was so unexpected I bugled right back just to confirm I wasn`t hearing things. Once again, the bull lit up with a scream noticeably closer than the last. We headed his way and quickly found a little spot to set up. The bull bugled once again, looking for our location. This time I stayed quiet, hoping curiosity would get the best of him. My buddy tapped me on the shoulder and pointed in the direction of the bull. I could see the tan fur passing through the trees. He was totally committed to coming and was already within range. It was pretty thick, so I just waited for him to pop into an opening. When he stepped into my shooting lane, I quickly drew the bow. The bull spun around, looking right at me. I was busted, and there was no ethical shot angle. He took about two seconds to look at me, then barked and bolted. What a disappointment! So many miles and so many days, only to get busted drawing my bow. The valuable lesson I learned here is to draw the bow and settle into your shot before the opportunity is there. This goes with any type of hunting. If you have shooting lanes or openings, then really key in on being at full draw and waiting in that window before the animal is there. If you try to do it when the animal is there, it`s simply too late. One other thing to point out is that your ability to do this goes hand in hand with my first point in this article of managing your weight. If you shoot a draw weight you can easily manage, then drawing back and waiting for your shot won`t be a problem. Look to the future and be waiting for your shot opportunity when it shows up! Don`t Believe the Hype As bowhunters, it`s tempting to take the easy way out sometimes, especially when it comes to our equipment. I`ve been there with you, and unfortunately you can`t always believe the advertising hype. One year, I saw this ad with a deadly looking broadhead and claims that it [flies exactly like a fieldpoint." Well, I was the first in town to buy some, and since they weren`t cheap, I kept them flawless in their package until I got up to British Columbia, where I was chasing black bears. Don`t believe every marketing claim made by broadhead manufacturers. Although most broadheads fly quite well when properly tuned, you should never hunt until you`ve shot them with your particular bow/arrow combination to confirm reliable accuracy. We covered a lot of amazing country up at the start of the Rockies and found a giant bruin out feeding on fresh greenery in this big logging cut. I made the perfect stalk and had everything in my favor for a perfect kill shot. I drew back, settled the 40-yard pin and released. The arrow flew way off the mark, and the bear ran off. I looked back at my guide, who was operating the video camera. He had this classic look on his face that screamed, [Jeez, that was a bad shot!" I couldn`t believe I had missed the entire animal. I quickly grabbed the camera and said, [Let`s watch that again." The video showed the arrow clearly flying way off target. We retrieved my arrow, and I told my guide to head back to camp where I could shoot it at a target. Well, the proof was in the pudding. That arrow wouldn`t even hit the Block Target past 30 yards with that broadhead. Although it looked cool, the truth was it flew like crap, and with my arrow and speed, it was arguably unethical to even launch it! My mistake was probably the most common of them all - not trying broadheads before taking the field. Once I returned home from that hunt, I did an experiment and realized just how much this can be a problem for bowhunters. I took a bow of mine that would shoot great groups with fieldpoints and put several types of broadheads on the arrows. Most would not group with my fieldpoints. The broadheads would group with themselves, if they were all the same, but broadhead A had a mind of its own compared to broadheads B, C and D. Some flew right, some left and others would be high or low. It was eye opening that all these heads were doing something different. After that, I started really experimenting with fletching choices and how it affected broadhead flight. There were a lot of variables, and some combinations were certainly better than others. My advice is to never blindly believe the packaging when it comes to the accuracy of your broadhead. Buy an extra pack and try them for yourself. [Fieldpoint accuracy" may be true for a bow shooting 250 fps and arrows with four-inch vanes, but will most likely be different for a bow shooting 300 fps arrows with two-inch vanes. You will only know for sure once you try it. Pre-season is the best time to do these tests. I guarantee you will be a more accurate, more ethical and more successful bowhunter because of it. My Failures, Your Friends Doing what I do for a living allows all of you to see my blessings in the outdoors. Often times, seeing my successes clouds people`s perspective and hides the fact that it`s not all rainbows and unicorns. I make mistakes all the time - just like you - and am humbled regularly. Thankfully, as I`ve matured as a bowhunter, those mistakes do occur less frequently. My goal is to let you learn from my mistakes, so when you finally have that dream buck walk under your stand, you will easily draw your bow and make a great shot. I want to make sure that when that screaming bull elk is standing right in front of you, your pin is already waiting for him with your finger on the trigger. Finally, I want you to see your broadhead split that small hair behind the shoulder when that giant black bear is broadside. There`s an old adage that says you have to [live and learn." But hopefully you don`t have to do that like I did. I say, [READ and learn!" Read more: http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics/avoiding-the-most-common-bowhunting-mistakes/#ixzz5GjpdQmEZ

Rookie Mistakes - Letting past failures be your friends. This past season, author John Dudley avoided another disaster in British Columbia by making sure his broadheads were dialed in before his bear hunt. After months in the treestand, seeing nothing but birds, raccoons and opossums, I finally saw a glimmer of antlers in the Illinois marsh. It was a buck worth waiting for: a giant, mature 10-pointer. The early season had passed, as had the peak rut. At this point, it was a longshot for me to even see a deer - let alone the one I had dreamed about for years. He was cruising the one trail leading to the only stand I got permission to hang. He was a needle in a haystack, but luck had us 30 yards apart, and he was closing the distance one step at a time. My heart was beating like a drum; I felt it in my throat and would swear the buck could have heard it too. I had my first new bow in my hand, and the opportunity to put it to use was seconds away. With my heart in my throat and quivering hands, I raised my bow and began to draw. I pulled harder and harder on the string as the buck continued its approach. He was now less than five yards away. As each second went by, I quivered and strained and pulled and tugged, yet the string did nothing. It was frozen like a piece of concrete! I stopped pulling and pointed the bow right at the buck, which was now directly under my tree. This time, I really leaned into it and gave it everything I had. As I pulled and tugged and tried to compose myself, the buck just casually walked away at a perfect shot angle one step at a time until, finally, he was out of range. I almost cried. What the heck happened? Well my friends, I`ve done some stupid things that have cost me big time in the woods, and this was one of the first, and worst, rookie mistakes. This article is all about the things I`ve done wrong as a bowhunter and what I have learned to do differently so that I have success rather than another story of the one that walked away! Manage Your Weight The story I just told you is true. I was a teenager and had saved up to buy my first bow. I had others, but they were all hand-me-downs. . This was my first [new" bow. I was young and was lured in by its impressive speed. Much like my motorcycle, I wanted something faster than my friends. I didn`t think about accuracy or practicality when I bought that 80-pound bow. As I wrote this article, I Googled this model to find the specs, and one of the first comments I found in an online forum was this description of the bow: [The [bows] were wrist-slapping rockets in their time-very radical, high-reflex designs with low brace heights that made them very critical to fit and form for good accuracy." Well, to whoever wrote this, you are right on the money with that description! Don`t be afraid to back down your draw weight to ensure you can still draw your bow under adverse conditions in the field. My mistake was not the bow; it was my ego and not knowing how to manage my draw weight. The part of the story I left out was the ending. Once the buck walked out of sight and my nerves settled, I gave the bow one last tug to see what the heck was going on. And guess what? I pulled it back. The problem was that the draw weight was at my maximum, not what was easy. It`s like working out in the gym. Sometimes you can do your max weight, and other days you just can`t. If you set up your bow to where it is achieving max velocity with your maximum effort, it may come at a serious price of missing your only opportunity of the season. Looking back, I realize I couldn`t pull the bow very easily in practice and often had to raise the bow to the sky to draw it back. My practice time was limited to how many times I could pull the bowstring back. The wise choice is to shoot a bow you can pull back while in a seated position while the bow is on a level plane. If you have to raise the bow high, lean back as you draw or thrust your hips and shoulder forward to get it back, then you aren`t managing your weight. Learn from my mistake and hunt with a draw weight you can control in any condition, and you will be able to make the shot you need, when you need it. Look to the Future I was 10 miles deep into a huge Alberta river basin. The GPS showed we had hiked more than 70 miles looking for a chance at an elk. We were exhausted, wet and had about an hour of daylight remaining on the last day of the hunt. Yup, things were looking pretty bleak! Experience has taught John Dudley to become more successful by anticipating the future. Study the animal`s direction of travel and already be anchored at full draw when the shot opportunity arises. I let out another bugle, expecting to hear nothing in return, since that is exactly what I had heard the previous seven days. Yet this time, a bull fired up and bugled back on top of mine. He was close, and honestly, it was so unexpected I bugled right back just to confirm I wasn`t hearing things. Once again, the bull lit up with a scream noticeably closer than the last. We headed his way and quickly found a little spot to set up. The bull bugled once again, looking for our location. This time I stayed quiet, hoping curiosity would get the best of him. My buddy tapped me on the shoulder and pointed in the direction of the bull. I could see the tan fur passing through the trees. He was totally committed to coming and was already within range. It was pretty thick, so I just waited for him to pop into an opening. When he stepped into my shooting lane, I quickly drew the bow. The bull spun around, looking right at me. I was busted, and there was no ethical shot angle. He took about two seconds to look at me, then barked and bolted. What a disappointment! So many miles and so many days, only to get busted drawing my bow. The valuable lesson I learned here is to draw the bow and settle into your shot before the opportunity is there. This goes with any type of hunting. If you have shooting lanes or openings, then really key in on being at full draw and waiting in that window before the animal is there. If you try to do it when the animal is there, it`s simply too late. One other thing to point out is that your ability to do this goes hand in hand with my first point in this article of managing your weight. If you shoot a draw weight you can easily manage, then drawing back and waiting for your shot won`t be a problem. Look to the future and be waiting for your shot opportunity when it shows up! Don`t Believe the Hype As bowhunters, it`s tempting to take the easy way out sometimes, especially when it comes to our equipment. I`ve been there with you, and unfortunately you can`t always believe the advertising hype. One year, I saw this ad with a deadly looking broadhead and claims that it [flies exactly like a fieldpoint." Well, I was the first in town to buy some, and since they weren`t cheap, I kept them flawless in their package until I got up to British Columbia, where I was chasing black bears. Don`t believe every marketing claim made by broadhead manufacturers. Although most broadheads fly quite well when properly tuned, you should never hunt until you`ve shot them with your particular bow/arrow combination to confirm reliable accuracy. We covered a lot of amazing country up at the start of the Rockies and found a giant bruin out feeding on fresh greenery in this big logging cut. I made the perfect stalk and had everything in my favor for a perfect kill shot. I drew back, settled the 40-yard pin and released. The arrow flew way off the mark, and the bear ran off. I looked back at my guide, who was operating the video camera. He had this classic look on his face that screamed, [Jeez, that was a bad shot!" I couldn`t believe I had missed the entire animal. I quickly grabbed the camera and said, [Let`s watch that again." The video showed the arrow clearly flying way off target. We retrieved my arrow, and I told my guide to head back to camp where I could shoot it at a target. Well, the proof was in the pudding. That arrow wouldn`t even hit the Block Target past 30 yards with that broadhead. Although it looked cool, the truth was it flew like crap, and with my arrow and speed, it was arguably unethical to even launch it! My mistake was probably the most common of them all - not trying broadheads before taking the field. Once I returned home from that hunt, I did an experiment and realized just how much this can be a problem for bowhunters. I took a bow of mine that would shoot great groups with fieldpoints and put several types of broadheads on the arrows. Most would not group with my fieldpoints. The broadheads would group with themselves, if they were all the same, but broadhead A had a mind of its own compared to broadheads B, C and D. Some flew right, some left and others would be high or low. It was eye opening that all these heads were doing something different. After that, I started really experimenting with fletching choices and how it affected broadhead flight. There were a lot of variables, and some combinations were certainly better than others. My advice is to never blindly believe the packaging when it comes to the accuracy of your broadhead. Buy an extra pack and try them for yourself. [Fieldpoint accuracy" may be true for a bow shooting 250 fps and arrows with four-inch vanes, but will most likely be different for a bow shooting 300 fps arrows with two-inch vanes. You will only know for sure once you try it. Pre-season is the best time to do these tests. I guarantee you will be a more accurate, more ethical and more successful bowhunter because of it. My Failures, Your Friends Doing what I do for a living allows all of you to see my blessings in the outdoors. Often times, seeing my successes clouds people`s perspective and hides the fact that it`s not all rainbows and unicorns. I make mistakes all the time - just like you - and am humbled regularly. Thankfully, as I`ve matured as a bowhunter, those mistakes do occur less frequently. My goal is to let you learn from my mistakes, so when you finally have that dream buck walk under your stand, you will easily draw your bow and make a great shot. I want to make sure that when that screaming bull elk is standing right in front of you, your pin is already waiting for him with your finger on the trigger. Finally, I want you to see your broadhead split that small hair behind the shoulder when that giant black bear is broadside. There`s an old adage that says you have to [live and learn." But hopefully you don`t have to do that like I did. I say, [READ and learn!" Read more: http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics/avoiding-the-most-common-bowhunting-mistakes/#ixzz5GjpdQmEZ

PSE is known for producing some of the fastest bows on the planet. Along with fast rigs, PSE continues to make improvements in other areas, such as reduced system torque and vibration and increased versatility and comfort. All that speed and performance culminates in the 2018 Xpedite, a rig sure to garner plenty of attention on the range and in the field. The PSE Xpedite is home to the company`s Evolve Cam System, which offers adjustability in letoff, draw length and even speed. It works with the 982 Series X-Tech limbs and recurve riser to produce consistent performance and speeds between 352 fps and 360 fps, depending on installed module. The unique FRS cable-containment system reduces system torque and cable friction. An adjustable String Stop and Riser Dumbbells work with the past-parallel position of the limbs to tame shot noise and vibration. Versatile Performance The Xpedite has a versatile eccentric system in the Evolve Cam. It employs a standard inner cam/module that offers letoffs of 80, 85 or 90 percent and speeds up to 352 fps.Install the Evolve Fast (EF) module, and you gain an additional 8 fps on letoffs of 65, 70 or 75 percent. Both have adjustable draw lengths from 24 1⁄2-30 inches, in half-inch increments, and no bow press is needed to adjust or switch out the inner cams/modules. An easy-to-read sight window shows the letter that corresponds to the draw length.PSE machines the dual EC cams from aircraft-grade aluminum, and each rides on bushings and stainless steel axles. The cams utilize four individual tracks that house the string or cables at different stages of the draw cycle. Cables are directly linked to one cam and yoked to the other, forcing unified rotation and a wide stance for stability that results in reduced cam lean. 982 Series X-Tech PSE employs X-Tech limb technology in the Xpedite`s 982 Series split limbs, which are heavily pre-loaded and reach beyond parallel at full draw. This takes advantage of the benefits provided by past-parallel limb configurations in terms of reduced shock, vibration and noise. A set of Shock Mods mounted between the limbs further attacks vibration. Limbs are available in peak draw weights of 60, 65 and 70 pounds. The interface between the limbs and riser is critical to performance, which PSE takes on with its X-Tech Speed Pocket with Wedgelock. This pocket cradles and controls the last couple inches of limbs, while the wedge secures and forces each limb tip to the front and top edge of the pocket for consistent alignment. Cut, Caged and Centered PSE`s Xpedite is built on a reflex, which allows for an increase in the power stroke, which in turn results in better speeds. The forged and machined aluminum riser employs two riser cages designed to increase strength, stiffness and stability through a broader stance from side-to-side and front-to-back. Many cutouts are machined along the length of the riser to keep weight to a minimum. The riser is also designed with True Center Pull Technology, which positions the arrow at the center of the riser to increase performance and tunability. The Xpedite is outfitted with a unique cable-containment system that connects to the riser with a Flex Rod System (FRS). The FRS uses a fiberglass rod with a belly cut so the system will flex toward the centerline of the bow during the draw cycle, then spring back to its original position and out of the way of passing vanes during the shot. Cables ride on the RollerGlide, which uses large aluminum rollers for the cables and smaller rollers for the rod, all designed to eliminate friction. Additional riser features include a CNC machined grip, six rubber Riser Dumbbells that reduce vibration, an adjustable rubber String Stop that tames string oscillation, a stainless steel stabilizer mounting insert, engraved tuning mark on the shelf and multiple sight mounting holes. Impressions The Xpedite is a good looking rig with excellent speed and a surprisingly smooth draw. While the grip is functional, it will be cold when the temps drop, and I would rather there were no cutouts in it. There is a notable jump in the handle at the shot; however, some low-level vibration is wiped out with a quality stabilizer. Average noise is reported when the arrow is released, and the top of the bow falls away slowly after a quick pause. Read more: http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/bow-reviews/bow-review-pse-xpedite/#ixzz5GjslozhP

Elk have big kill zones, and the country they live in is big. The natural progression of these two profound thoughts is the need to push your maximum range outward when going after these animals. Extending maximum range is not just for elk hunters, however. I shot my biggest whitetail buck right at the very fringe of my maximum range, and I know I am not the only one who can say this. And then there is the matter of simple math. By simply moving your maximum range from 25 to 35 yards, you double the amount of ground you can cover from a single stationary point, such as a treestand or ground blind. Think about that for a second. If you are hunting an open ridge, for example, you have just doubled your chances that a passing buck will be within range. The tips in this column will help you add those valuable 10 yards to your maximum range. Steady Your Aim On 20-yard shots, you can get away with a pin that bounces around the target like a moth around a streetlight. But when you start to push your limits, you will soon learn accuracy is very unforgiving of sudden twitches. The physical part: If there`s any tension in your body, it will be transmitted straight to the pin. Though the pin never has to completely stop moving, it should always be floating close to the spot you are trying to hit. Tension starts with your legs and works up. Focus on each body part while shooting to assure that it is tension-free. Most important is your last link to the bow - the bow hand. The hand should feel like a lifeless cradle at the end of your arm. It should have nothing to add to the shot. It is the direct link between the bow and a relaxed bow arm. Getting stronger through fitness and regular shooting will help you relax every muscle more fully and slow the pin`s movements. The final step is to put a very slight bend in the elbow of your bow arm so it can act as a shock absorber for the shot. The mental part: Some top shooters will focus on the spot they want to hit while others watch the pin, trying to keep it still. It calms my bow arm to focus on the spot while aiming because it isn`t moving, but you will need to experiment with this yourself. Concentrate as hard as you can on every practice arrow (never get mentally lazy on the range) and learn to relax fully to eliminate those occasional flyers that ruin long-range consistency. Squeeze the Trigger You can get by with rough shooting on close shots, but when you stretch it out you have to be smooth. With a release aid, this means squeezing the trigger while focusing on the spot you want to hit. As long as you don`t break your concentration on the target to mentally shout, [Now!" the release will be fine. Ideally, it will take you by surprise. Your only job is to relax and keep the pin floating around near the spot you want to hit until the bow fires. You will immediately eliminate target panic and your long-range groups will become much more consistent. Follow-Through is Glue I`ve helped a lot of average bowhunters add 10 yards to their maximum range by doing nothing more than keeping their bow arms pointed at the target until the arrow hits. This is probably the most important thing you can do to improve your consistency past 20 yards. The other steps are important, but follow-through is the glue that holds all of them together. Long-Range Practice Having a critical feedback system will help you improve more quickly, and there is no more critical feedback than missing the target! The more you practice at longer distances, the more you will realize how unforgiving accuracy is of every flaw in your form and the quicker you will fix those flaws - almost naturally. Confidence is also important when lining up a tough shot in the field. If you have any doubts about whether you can make the shot, you should not take it. Increased confidence is another benefit of long-range practice. For example, if you want to be a great shot at 35 yards, do most of your shooting at 45 or even 50 yards. After only a few weeks, the 35-yard shot will feel the same way 20-yard shots used to feel. Increase Arrow Speed The faster your arrows travel, the flatter your trajectory will be and the better your bow will compensate for slight errors in range estimation. Fast arrows will increase your maximum range when the distance is unknown. When the time comes to upgrade, consider a faster bow or possibly slightly lighter arrows. Better Ranging Even though you may carry a laser rangefinder all the time, you will still encounter some shot opportunities where you just can`t get a reading in time. Maybe the animal changes course after you reach full draw, or it approaches from a direction you didn`t expect and catches you by surprise, not permitting enough time to use a rangefinder. So, if you`re relying on a rangefinder to do all your work, you may be in for a surprise. You still have to be able to judge distance without aid. First, choose an object you think is right at 20 yards. Next, mentally lay out blocks of yardage in five or 10-yard increments along the ground until you arrive at your target. With some practice, you can become very quick and accurate at this. When practicing this skill, you can pace off the distance, or better yet, use a laser rangefinder to get instant feedback on the accuracy of your guess. Since +/-15 percent (the range estimation error the military attributes to its trained gunners) is about as good as most people can average by eyeball alone, your maximum range depends heavily on this skill, yet it is one we rarely practice. Putting It All Together If you can shoot four-inch groups at 20 yards, can estimate range within 15 percent of actual every time and shoot an average arrow speed of 230 fps, your sure-kill maximum range at unknown distances is 20.5 yards. But if you`re willing to improve your shooting skills until you can lay one arrow right on top of the next and bump your arrow speed to 270 fps, your maximum range at unknown distances increases to the magical 35 yards that will make you a better, more efficient bowhunter. And with a laser rangefinder, you increase your maximum range to 40 yards using the shooting form tips found here. Adding 10 yards to your maximum range is very realistic and is one of the most important steps you can take between now and the start of your season. In the end, maximum range becomes a personal thing, and has as much to do with why we bowhunt as it does with skill and technology. Some bowhunters never take shots beyond 20 yards, because that is the game for them. They feel that if they can`t get the animal that close, they didn`t do their part and don`t deserve to take it home. I understand that mindset. I hunted ducks all the time as a boy and I never took a shot unless the birds were sold-out and totally fooled by the decoys. I could have killed a lot more by taking passing shots, but I just liked the game of fooling them. Bowhunting is supposed to be up close. That`s the real excitement of this sport. But I still count 35-40-yard shots as being [up close." That`s a shot any serious deer hunter can be ready, willing and able to make every single time. You aren`t cheating the integrity of the sport by adding 10 yards to your maximum range; you are only cheating yourself if you don`t. Read more: http://www.bowhuntingmag.com/tactics/add-10-yards-to-your-effective-range/#ixzz5GjXNz5TJ

Now in its 16th year, the NRA Golden Bullseye Awards represent the pinnacle of achievement within the shooting, hunting and outdoor trade. In 2017, after years of record-breaking sales, many industry observers wondered what ingenious introductions might still be unveiled. After all, any product worthy of our gold standard must meet or exceed American Hunter`s expectations of innovation-and they absolutely must provide hunters with value for their money. But once again, we were surprised when we collected nominations and tallied our votes. Bow of the Year: Ravin R9 Crossbow With a 190-pound draw weight and a 13-inch powerstroke that launches a 400-grain arrow at 390 fps with 135 ft.-lbs. of kinetic energy, the Ravin R9 is faster and more powerful than 90 percent of crossbows on the market. Uncocked, it measures 10.5 inches axle-to-axle. When cocked axle-to-axle length is only 6 inches; cam-edge-to-cam-edge span is just 9.25 inches. The bow`s HeliCoil eccentric system, four cables that wind around the cam axles in helical channels, reduces leverage on each cam and applies force evenly to send an arrow directly down the string`s centerline. An innovative arrow rest virtually eliminates friction. Ravin`s sliding fire-control system, Trac-Trigger, contains an anti-dry-fire device, and engages the trigger sear and safety. It works with a cocking system that requires only 10 pounds of force; the system is ambidextrous and can be cranked silently. Trigger pull weight is only 2.32 pounds. Field Editor Jeff Johnston`s testing produced .78-inch groups at 30 yards, which is remarkable ([Hardware," April 2017). The Ravin R9, he wrote, is [as easy to carry and cock as crossbows come, yet it remains incredibly powerful and accurate. Indeed, it`s a game changer."